I need a filter system for freshwater fish thank, so that I never have to change water again; like my friend’s
Saturday, January 16th, 2010 at
4:36 pm
any recommendations on which system/website?
I will pay a few hundred one time to not have to change this 80 gallon tank weekly (which I don’t do regularly anyhow so the water gets algae infested).
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Filed under: Water Filters
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Which aquarium filters are best for your tank?
The answer depends on how many fish you keep in the tank, how much maintenance you do, and your goals for the tank.
Water quality is critical to the health of your fish, so it is important that you have the appropriate aquarium filters. Waste products can build up quickly, turning to ammonia and making the water poisonous to your fish, but a well filtered tank will keep this from happening and may also allow you to keep more fish in the tank.
There are three basic kinds of aquarium filters, biological , mechanical and chemical. You should definitely have a combination of biological and mechanical in your tank. The verdict is out on chemical filtration, some say you need it, and others feel it is unnecessary or only necessary for sort term if you are trying to correct a certain problem with your water.
Mechanical Filtration - Mechanical filtration removes particles from the water by passing the water through some type of screen or filter.
Biological Filtration - In your tank, the waste from your fish and particles of uneaten food is constantly breaking down in to ammonia which can be toxic to your fish. Biological filtration is necessary so that bacteria, which feed on this ammonia and it’s byproducts making the water safe for your fish, can exist. In order for this bacteria to exists you need to provide a place for the bacteria to grow. This can be the gravel bed itself, a sponge or cartridge in your power filter or the bio media in your canister filter.
Chemical Filtration - Chemical filtration is the use of ammonia absorbing chemicals like carbon or ammonia chips to remove ammonia from the water. Since your biological filtration should be taking care of this, some question the need for this at all. Other than the very early stages when your bacteria bed has not had enough time to build up, chemical filtration may be unnecessary. In any event, if you are using a carbon filter for chemical filtration and you need to medicate your tank, be sure to remove the filter as it will absorb the medication.
Undergravel Aquarium Filters
The most common aquarium filters for biological filtration are Undergravel Filters (or UGF). These consists of a pierced plate that is placed between the substrate and the bottom of the tank. It works by pulling the water through the substrate and returning it at the top of the tank. The UGF allows a bacteria bed to grow in the substrate. Underground aquarium filters are best for tanks under 40 gallons and are quite reasonably priced but do have limitations. Using a UGF, the waste tends to get sucked down into the gravel so your gravel MUST be vacuumed deep down, they also tend to clog and are not recommended if you want to have live plants. On the other hand these filters require little or no maintenance, never need a cartridge change and never wear out.
Power Filters
Power filters are the most commonly used aquarium filters for mechanical filtration in tanks under 55 gallons. Typically, they hang off the back of the tanks and provide mechanical filtration by pulling the water up into the unit and filtering through a cartridge. Most of them also have a carbon cartridge to provide chemical filtration and some even have a "biowheel" that provides biological filtration. Many aquarists use a power filter in conjunction with undergravel aquarium filters for increased water quality.
Canister Filters
Canister aquarium filters are typically used in larger tanks (55 gallons and up) and are recommended for saltwater tanks. They provide a complete solution for all types of filtration and are designed to be flexible so that you can decide how much of each type of filtration is needed. These filters usually are kept hidden in the base of the tanks stand and are therefore considered to be more aesthetically pleasing than the "hang on the back" kind of filter. They work by pushing the water through the filtration material and are considered to be a more powerful means of filtration than the power filter. It is a bit more complicated to set up, however and the maintenance is not as easy as a power filter.
There is absolutley no filter available that eliminates water changes. It may decrease the frequency, but no filter available today can replace minerals and nutrients in water that are consumed by the plants and animals in the aquarium.
with any tank you have to do a water change at least once a month and algea is normal even in a tank with great filtration, also even petsmart and petco have to water changes and they have a state of the art filter. also you have to vacuum the gravel no matter what no filtration system will get all the fish poop.
if you do need a better filter try marine canister filters you can find them on petsmart.com.
to help out a little get a under gravel filter a canister and you normal carbon filter, if nothing else you will have a healthy tank.
You have to make water changes !!!!!! You have to replenish the nutrients in the water and reduce phosphates and nitrates. I think you need to do some research and learn a little more about tank Maintenance!!!!
CollegeChick is right in what she has said.
My advice is to get an external filter that will turnover your water at least 3 times an hour (without having a hurricane in your tank). I use tetratec external filters. They start at about £60, but for an 80 gallon I would reccomend the ones around £120.
Anyway, a bit of algae shows a healthy tank (if its inudated with algae then thats a different matter). Its also a food source for many fish (epiphtic growth eaters or Limnivores to be precise, but omnivores with teeth will munch it too).
If you dont want to be cleaning algae off then buy an algae eater like a Chinese Algae Eater (loach), or a Plec (bare in mind they only eat algae in their youth), or even a golden apple snail (these will devour any live plants you have though).
As for water changes, as she said, you HAVE to do these. 10% twice a week or 35-40% every two weeks.
With all due respect, it sounds like your after instant gratification without the graft, and thats not a good approach.
You are the lifeline of the fish you keep, and they need a lot of care!
I reckon you start simple, get a book/website on the fish you want to keep. Read whats involved, and if your not too sure if you can put up with it, I wouldn’t bother with a fish tank.
You will just end up with a messy tank fish graveyard!
I wasn’t being offensive there, just brutally honest.
Good luck, and I hope you have success with your fish tank!