We have a Culligan Rust-Master for removal of iron and sulphur, and the Culligan Mark-100 water softener.

Over the last several months we have been having sulphur deposits in the toilets so we brough in the Culligan man…. He said that the first problem was that the valve to let air into the system needed to be replaced and, if that didn’t fix the problem, the mineral tank needed to be replaced because it’s probably full. He said that mineral tanks typically last 4-5 years at most so they need to be replaced regularly.

We had a plumber take a look too, and he agreed about the valve. He also wants to replace the aerator/precipitator with something other than Culligan, because it offers a port at the bottom for draining the sludge, instead of replacing the tank.

The main question I have is… Are the Culligan man and the plumber talking about replacing the same piece? I’ve tried to correlate "mineral tank" with the aerator/precipitator but haven’t been able to find any relationship.

Do mineral tanks (or whatever they’re called) for the Culligan Rustmaster need to be replaced every few years?

Another, related, question… The Culligan manual says to put the aerator/precipitator after the water pressure tank and before the filter tank. But the plumber says that the aerator/precipitator should be before the pressure tank. Which way is better?

Thanks,

Trevor.

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The sink is directly across from the fridge and my house sits on concrete slab so there really isn’t a way to run it from there. Outside my house there’s a water outlet (for lack of a better term.. I’m no plumber!) and I’m wondering if it would be ok to use that and run it into the house. Any info is appreciated!!

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It was working fine this morning, and the hot is working normal. The water all over the house is working fine as well, hot and cold. My kitchen sink is against an outside wall and the temps have been in the negatives, and will be for several more days. Plumber is too far away to come before next week. Is there anything that I can do in the meantime? Only way to turn off water, is to have town come and shut off entire line.

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I recently had a pipe leak in a wall that my plumber aid was caused by "hard water." I was told a water softener would help reduce future problems. I also notice my shower heads clog after a few months because of mineral build-up. What are the price ranges for a good softener? What brands fare wll?

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Hello.

I want to install a water softener. Since I found out my basement do not have drain-line. What can I do? My basement closet have just only water main line for home.-Please reference the picture-

http://cfs7.blog.daum.net/image/17/blog/2007/05/07/01/23/463e00dcb04a5&filename=waterline02.jpg

Then if I call the plumber, they can install a water softener at this place?

Thank you anybody can help this.

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I have a relative who just had a new home built. The plumber wants 0 to install a water softener. I read online, and it appears to be kind of complicated, with various cutting and soldering and whatnot….
Should I not attempt this?

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There is a small amount of water on the floor by the water softener. IF it is a problem with the (Culligan) softener, do I need to call Culligan to get a service call? Or, can a plumber do it instead?

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Sears Kenmore model # 25358082814. Water and ice was working fine, changed the filter and got no water or ice. I can get water if I run water somewhere else ( flush the toilet, wash dishes etc ). Called a repairman paid him dollars to be told I need a plumber. He said I have a problem with my pressure system. I have too much pressure. Is he right? Is there anything else it could be? Thanks for any help

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I moved in this house 2 yrs ago and recently bought a new fridge to replace the old crappy 1970’s looking one that was here. It is a GE side by side with ice and water dispenser on door. I thought I would need a plumber to run the water line but when I pulled it out to clean back there I notced I do have a water spicket back there. Do I still need a plumber? I am paying the for the guys who move it in the hosue to hook it up but dont know if I need more then what is already there. What I saw was a square hole neatly cut into the wall behind fridge and a water spicket valve. Thanks!

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I have a electric mobile home water heater that is leaking at fitting where the hot water connects. The connection is on the side 2 inches from the top. The connection is plastic a friend told me to put some plumber putty around the connection.

I was reading on the container of the plumbers putty and it stated not to use on plastic.

I have seen the spray foam but did not know if I could use this because of the hot water temp being 120 degrees.

Any Ideals the water heater is only a year old and I hate to replace it. The water heater was not purchaced by me so I doubt warrenty would be good.

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My husband would prefer NOT to have a separate faucet line for filtered water, so we would need an in-line drinking water filter for our kitchen sink. He would also prefer NOT to have to depend on a plumber to install it.

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Today we had a new water heater installed. The plumber/installer had to turn the water off temporarily to install the water heater but then he turned it back on. Since the installation (about 9 hrs ago) we’ve noticed that two of our faucets have extremely low water pressure. The rest of the faucets are fine so what is going on? Should I call back the plumbing & heating place that did the install? Why would this happen?

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My university accomodation has no filtered water (i.e. with fluoride removed)… Since it is their property I can’t get a plumber to play around with the pipes and install a filter. So is there something - like a cap - that I can wrap around the tap head, to trap the added chemicals? How big would this cap be? (I will be sharing the water source with others and I don’t want a big chunk contraption hovering over the sink)

Any other tips appreciated

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Have changed fridge filter & had plumber look at the supply source coming into house but nothing has helped. Problem solely in fridge & not in kitchen sink water.

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This is a Challenger brand reverse osmosis (R/O) system; Model "Conqueror II". I bought the 3 required filters and membrane myself but the company who sold us the filtration system wants to charge a high fee to come service it and if they can’t make money off the near 100% mark-up on filters and membranes they supply, they’ll charge me extra for using my own replacement supplies. Can we say "con-artist"? (NO! Not in the Water business!!)

While I’m an able bodied, intelligent adult male who can do many home repairs myself, I’m not a plumber and some of this requires crouching under the sink, working with special wrenches in precarious places. I’ve had one general appliance repairman say he THINKS he can replace these 3 filters and 1 membrane/bladder…but now I’m thinking I might be able to do it myself.

But I wanted to double check with the Yahoo! Answers community first to see if there are any do-it-yourselfers out there or R/O Water Filtration specialists who could advise as to whether I should attempt this on my own.

I’ve searched online for the instructions to replace the filters and membrane for this make and model, but have yet to discover the magic site.

Any advice?

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