We live in a fairly expensive area so a range would help.

Thanks!
I got this never used water softener for free on freecycle.com so there is no installation included.

It is a sears brand so I think sears might do it… was just curious how much it costs…

OR I may have a plumber replace our toilet at the same time. Anyone know how much it costs to replace a toilet?

(not the toilet itself, just the labor to install)

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I have a combi boiler that recently had a part fixed as the hot water wasn’t getting to the radiators (the hot water in the taps was fine). Since then I now only get hot water to the taps if I switch the hot water to the radiators on as well. Any idea why? Will this be due to a mistake the plumber made when he fitted the last part?

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I have a couple faucets that are for some reason starting to leak.
One of them leaks when you turn it on (leaks from the handle) and the other leaks a bunch when I don’t use it.

This has been going on for a while and I’m wondering just around how much money is wasted from this. My parent are going to try to get a plumber, but since they wait too long to call one up, more money is ”going down the drain”.

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When we turn on the water, the faucets make a very loud noise. They’re not stuck, as they turn on with ease. They just make the noise. We haven’t contacted a plumber yet because we’re wondering if it’s something we can fix ourselves.
-I don’t know if this has anything to do with it but we do have hard water where we live.
And when we turn on more water, the loud sound goes away. But it’s really annoying.

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I have purged air from my entire system, per protocol recommended by plumber. Also have recently replaced the bathtub fixture (where problem is). The hammering only occurs when I divert the water from tub spot to shower head. If I can get the shower head going, and then increase or reduce water flow, the water shuts down after the hammering and I have to divert back to tub spot to get it going again.

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I have a Rainsoft Apollo Classic V.2 water softener that I don’t have an owner’s manual to. This is my first day using it because I had to set up the electrical line (which I did a week after the plumber left, or else I’d ask him this question). Anyway, I don’t know how to set it up to manually regenerate. I followed the instructions on the unit, which said to turn the timer dial two clicks clockwise, but it wasn’t very clear what was meant by "clicks", so I’m not sure if I turned it correctly or too many times or what. It doesn’t seem like anything is happening except that water is draining through the drain. I’m not sure whether or not that means it’s working correctly. Can someone tell me what to look for to know if this is working correctly or, if not, what I’m supposed to do to manually regenerate? It’s not that the unit is broken; it’s just that I’ve never used a water softener before and I don’t know what to expect to see happen when I try to manually regenerate.

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Need help ASAP….We have a Delta Single Lever faucet in our kitchen that as of yesterday lost water pressure. It has an aerator built into our PUR filter which I removed to check if that was the problem. There was some sediment built up, but with the entire filter and aerator removed there is still no pressure. Every other line in the house, including the bathroom toilet and sink in the next room over function perfectly. Can anyone suggest where I can look next to possibly fix this problem?
Checked the valves under the sink….doesn’t seem to be a problem there.
As far as a cartridge is concerned, I am not quite sure there is one….when I removed the housing I found the metal ball beneath the cam and the support springs (which all seemed fine). I am in the middle of trying to run a thin plumber’s snake through each side (hot and cold) but it makes little sense that I should lose water pressure on both lines, right?
Okay….under last suggestion pulled up spout and found diverter…how do I know if it is stuck and if stuck how do I make it unstuck? It does look like there is a build up of sorts so should I use a cleansing agent (like CLR) to brush it up?
New development…
Checked diverter….found some strange black stuff (rocks? rubber?) blocking its movement. Removed the blockage. Went back and reassembled faucet by the letter…springs and all…turned water back to full open on both valves and used the top of the faucet ball to turn on water…water came out full blast and let it run for two minutes to be sure…reattached lever handle (had some trouble here) but turned water on again and the pressure went for about ten seconds before disappearing altogether…barely a dribble. Went back and checked for blockage at diverter again and none found. Followed steps back to reassemply and got pressure for ten seconds before it seemed as though lever (or something inside it/beneath it) came loose again and pressure left. I know I have tightened everything properly so where could the problem be? The lever AND the diverter maybe?

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This unit is a "Mark 2" water conditioner, and was in the house when I bought it a couple years ago. It consists of three tanks, each about 3.5 feet tall, one wider than the others.

Several indications are that it’s at least twenty years old. Though it’s hooked into the plumbing, I highly doubt that it’s doing anything; I suspect there’s a control on the unit that allows the water to bypass it. It’s so old and apparently un-maintained that I wouldn’t trust it anyway. I don’t even know that I *want* a water conditioner, though I do want to get a new whole-house filter. I just want it gone.

Who can I get to remove this thing? Any old plumber? I contacted a Culligan man by email, but no response yet (it’s the weekend). I’m curious about the removal fee and whether the thing would be of any value to the Culligan dealer. Thanks

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We have a Culligan Rust-Master for removal of iron and sulphur, and the Culligan Mark-100 water softener.

Over the last several months we have been having sulphur deposits in the toilets so we brough in the Culligan man…. He said that the first problem was that the valve to let air into the system needed to be replaced and, if that didn’t fix the problem, the mineral tank needed to be replaced because it’s probably full. He said that mineral tanks typically last 4-5 years at most so they need to be replaced regularly.

We had a plumber take a look too, and he agreed about the valve. He also wants to replace the aerator/precipitator with something other than Culligan, because it offers a port at the bottom for draining the sludge, instead of replacing the tank.

The main question I have is… Are the Culligan man and the plumber talking about replacing the same piece? I’ve tried to correlate "mineral tank" with the aerator/precipitator but haven’t been able to find any relationship.

Do mineral tanks (or whatever they’re called) for the Culligan Rustmaster need to be replaced every few years?

Another, related, question… The Culligan manual says to put the aerator/precipitator after the water pressure tank and before the filter tank. But the plumber says that the aerator/precipitator should be before the pressure tank. Which way is better?

Thanks,

Trevor.

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The sink is directly across from the fridge and my house sits on concrete slab so there really isn’t a way to run it from there. Outside my house there’s a water outlet (for lack of a better term.. I’m no plumber!) and I’m wondering if it would be ok to use that and run it into the house. Any info is appreciated!!

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It was working fine this morning, and the hot is working normal. The water all over the house is working fine as well, hot and cold. My kitchen sink is against an outside wall and the temps have been in the negatives, and will be for several more days. Plumber is too far away to come before next week. Is there anything that I can do in the meantime? Only way to turn off water, is to have town come and shut off entire line.

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I recently had a pipe leak in a wall that my plumber aid was caused by "hard water." I was told a water softener would help reduce future problems. I also notice my shower heads clog after a few months because of mineral build-up. What are the price ranges for a good softener? What brands fare wll?

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Hello.

I want to install a water softener. Since I found out my basement do not have drain-line. What can I do? My basement closet have just only water main line for home.-Please reference the picture-

http://cfs7.blog.daum.net/image/17/blog/2007/05/07/01/23/463e00dcb04a5&filename=waterline02.jpg

Then if I call the plumber, they can install a water softener at this place?

Thank you anybody can help this.

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I have a relative who just had a new home built. The plumber wants 0 to install a water softener. I read online, and it appears to be kind of complicated, with various cutting and soldering and whatnot….
Should I not attempt this?

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There is a small amount of water on the floor by the water softener. IF it is a problem with the (Culligan) softener, do I need to call Culligan to get a service call? Or, can a plumber do it instead?

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